Friday, June 17, 2016

Japan - Osaka And Kyoto

It is just 1 week that I came back from my road trip to Krabi, I felt that it isn’t enough of wanderlust and lost in the bewilderedness. Browsing through sky scanner and googles map; I am wondering and thinking should I plan a solo trip to somewhere?

The answer is Yes! Made some arrangement back home and work and have decided to visit the land of the rising sun (a place where I always wanted to visit but yet to made the decision). Didn’t really quite ask any friends if they are interested, I book my flight and started planning my itinerary for a 7 days wandering and lost in a foreign land.


Flight: Vietnam Airlines at approx $475sgd (from Singapore to Osaka Kansai International airport, transiting in Vietnam) and accommodations for 5 nights at approx $210sgd (staying in Khaosan Kyoto Theater dormitory capsule)

Nevertheless, news has been reporting that Fukushima radiation leak has reached Tokyo, but I have decided to go to Osaka and Kyoto anyway; probably a place more of my interest; historical architectures and places. Weather during this time is good as it is Spring but it will be after the cherry blossom periods with temperature ranging from 26 -19 degrees celsius.

Approx: 100yen = $1usd = $1.35sgd (GMT +9)

It was an afternoon flight to Hanoi Noi Bai airport where I have a 6 hours transit before heading for an overnight flight to Osaka, lazing in the business lounges on the 4th floor, drinking beer, enjoying food and watching movie on youtube (thanks to the fast wifi that they have). As my stuffs are quite minimal, 6kg backpack and 3kg worth of camera and lens, I do not need to check in and just carry them around.

After a night of flight, which is about 5hours from Hanoi to Osaka, I arrived at Osaka Kansai International airport. Departure card is required to be filled up, somehow it wasn’t given to us on the plane (or maybe I had slept through it and they thought that I’m Japanese hence not giving to me). After clearing custom, I am officially in Japan starting my 6days of wanderlust ahead!

They do sell Sim card at the airport, so it doesn’t really required to buy them in Singapore before flying to Japan. They are located at the first floor, after clearing custom, walk out and turn left, sim card are sold in vending machines at 3,000 yen for 1gb for 30 days (data only) and 4,000 yen for 2.2gb for 30 days (data only). Alternatively it can also be purchase at the counter closer to the glass side doors. Do not leave the airport until you have set up your sim card because airport wifi is needed to download APN in order to register and start using the Sim Card.

Configurations and set up completed, and I made my way to railway station where I can take airport express straight to Osaka city center or the first place of attractions. At airport there is 2 options; JR Airport railways or Nankai Airport express. There will also be 1 day train pass available for sale but they are not inter usable as JR railways is government managed and the others are actually privately managed railways. I did not purchase the railway pass as I will be cross using the different rails and also my trips total per day add up is not as much to fully utilise the 1 day pass. After few days of experiences, I feel that the private railways are actually much more convenient and faster and cheaper too, cutting across here and there (of course they are more difficult to interpret and many stations does not have English language ticket selling stations (just look for the station that you are going to and fare as they will be indicated on the lighted board at or around the ticket vending machine, and just pay that fare, eg 200yen, just buy a 200yen ticket and take the train to your destinations)







Different kind of railways in Osaka

My first stop will be to Tennoji park that is of course alighting at Tennoji Station, here they will have Tennoji Park (really just a park), Horikoshi Shrine (a really small and quiet shrine) and Shitennoji Shrine. Unlike places of attractions in Beijing, places of attractions in Osaka and Kyoto isn’t huge and so normally in less than an hour I can cover 1 location. On my way walking to Tennoji Park, I felt hungry and decided to grab a bite in 1 of the subways local cafes, a hotdog bun will cost about 350 yen and the good thing is that I do not need to purchase drinks as Ice water and ice green tea are always available for most of the place i patronised for food.

my 350yen hotdog bun


Horikoshi Shrine (a small local shrine)

Shitennoji Shrine 


Afternoon session will be Fushima Inari Shrine, the famous iconic place in Kyoto where they had thousands of Torii Gates all the way up to mountain top. Going to Kyoto which is about 55km from Osaka city take about 1hr 15mins (inclusive of buying tickets and trying to figure out which rail to take). 

I was wandering around and just following the road and ended up at Shintennoji-mae Yuhigaoka station which is Tanimachi line. Took the train towards Tenjimbashisuji 6-chome and change over to Hankyu Kyoto line and head towards Kawaramachi station (also the station that is near to my dormitory). Exiting from Kawaramachi, go towards Keihan line and take to Fushima Inari station. note is that they have different type train service… like express, semi-express, sub-express and local; each will be dedicated to stop at specific stations or all stations for local service trains. 

Follow the signage at the train station and soon I have arrived at the entrance or Fushima Inari. The place is rather crowded but as I went further up Mount Inari, it gets quieter and quieter and quieter until there is no souls around me, just me and the Torii Gates and the bewilderedness of the Japanese forest.


Fushima Inari train station


On the way up to Fushima Inari


Entrance of Fushima Inari


Quietness as I ascend higher into the forest trails stretched with Torii Gates

After a night flight with insufficient sleep on flight, and whole day of activities, I guess it is enough for the day that I need to bunk in and rest well for the next day. Khaosan Kyoto Theater has really far exceeded my expectations for dormitory. I stayed in a 10 bedded mixed dormitory that had wooden sliding door for individual capsule. It is actually double decker bed but it has been reconstructed with wooden wall and door with paper-like sealings. 

Initially I thought it will be stuffy if I were to sleep with the wooden sliding door close, but apparently it wasn’t so. The paper sealing that they used actually allows very good ventilation, and aircon can comes in out out freely leaving me feeling cold half way through the night. Temperature was the same inside the closed door capsule and the room. I had different room mates that comes all go, they are solo travellers and are very polite, friendly and ready to chat up and greet each other. The only downside is that toiletries and towels are not provided, but available for rent; I brought mine. 

In less than a minute after I laid down, I am soundly asleep.

10 bedded mixed dormitory

Inside closed door capsule


Night seems short as I woke up at 0600hrs local time to get ready to set off to my first location, Kinkaku-Ji (Golden Pavilion). It opens at 0900hrs and I am there to beat the crowd but to my surprise, the crowd beat me. 830am and the entrance is packed with tourist and mostly students, all waiting orderly and getting ready to enter once the door opens. A thing different in Japan and other S.E Asia that I have visited is everyone pays the same price irregardless that I am tourist or local, just like Singapore. In places like Vietnam, Thailand or Cambodia, locals normally get to enter for free and tourist will have to pay a reasonable fee to enter.

Packed with students waiting to enter

everybody same price

Entrance ticket to be flashed at the warden 

Kinkaku-Ji Temple


Kinkaku-Ji is a Zen temple whose top two floors are completely covered in gold leaf, it was burnt down many times due to several reason and finally rebuilt back since 1955. 

There are a few buses that can bring me to Kinkaku-Ji and I took bus 205 from bus stop F in Kawaramachi which is about 10 minutes walk from my dormitory. There are a few buses that accept flat fee, and for this service is 230yen irregardless of where I alight. 

Buses in Kyoto are comprehensive as they have a screen in front indicating what stops we are approaching and what are the attractions there. No change will be given, but there is a machine to change notes to coins, do change to coins prior to alighting and pay as you alight from the front (normally buses are boarded from the front and alighted from the rear but in Japan is different, boarding from the rear and alight at the front; pay before alighting).

On bus ride, passengers are refrain from talking on the phone announcement was made..to prevent disturbances to other passengers

My breakfast before starting the day (850yen)


It takes me about 45minutes to complete my tour in Kinkaku-Ji which cost 400yen, being way ahead of my scheduled timing, I made my way to a coffee house back in Kawaramachi to chill and experience lifestyle. It doesn’t feel much weird eating, strolling and drinking coffee alone in Japan as it seems like everyone is alone. Went to a few places to eat and drink and customers are just mostly alone sitting quietly and eating or drinking. I am starting to like this place as people are generally polite, courteous, ethical and disciplined.

Solo individuals enjoying their coffee breaks

Busy cross junctions where pedestrians can cross from everywhere


Wandering around, I went to Osaka in the afternoon and look around, visiting another popular place, Osaka Castle. however the place closes at 1700hrs and I am there around 1615hrs and is quiet close to closing time; didn’t want to spend the 600yen entrance fee as timing will be kinda rush, I just stroll around outside and save up the money for Takoyaki instead.

Osaka Castle

Many carts selling Japanese popular street food outside Osaka Castle

4 flavoured Takoyaki


My friend, Gwen was in Osaka too and we met up for dinner in Shinseki, a place where they has many traditional buildings and shops, a place with lots of restaurants as well as beautifully litted shops. Weather wasn’t on our side as it rains the whole evening till late night. Sashimi is really fresh and delicious, staffs are polite and always showing enthusiasm. 

After having a sumptuous dinner we strolled the streets of Osaka to Dotonburi which is another place of attraction in Osaka that has big billboards and well named restaurants. 

Big blow up pufferfish, many places here has pufferfish sashimi, a local delicacy that only the Japanese are licensed to prepared.

Chef preparing food

Very fresh sashimi (raw fish & squids)

Tsutenkaku Tower at far in green in the drizzling night


Dotonburi Glico man


Meeting up next morning, we decided to go to Kurumon market, a place where they has a lot of fresh seafood (it is like a fish market but places are really well house kept as I doesn’t smell anything fishy there. Ramen seems to taste good everywhere I tried and also the broth is always tasty; I can only differentiate it by this is good, this is better or Wah! this one really good! 

Kurumon market where there is abundance of fresh seafood that can be eaten raw.

Alot of seafood on display.


Ramen for breakfast in 1 of the tiny local stores where the Boss and lady boss doesn’t really speaks English; I guess I have to use whatever Japanese words I had learnt and encountered before to tell her what we want. 

After which, along Kurumon market, Fu-gu Sashimi came to my mind and I wanted to try it. Fugu aka blowfish aka puffer fish is a delicacy that only the Japanese knows how to prepare it and license are required to be attained prior to be qualified to prepare this dish. Puffer fish is a very poisonous fish and if preparation wasn’t properly done, eating it can be fatal almost instantly. Rumoured that everyone is allowed to have it except the King. It has a texture of common fish sashimi with smooth surface but chewing it in the mouth will release a distinctive taste that clearly differentiates it from other fish sashimi, also it is chewy like cuttlefish. 

The little store that we had our Ramen for breakfast

Tempura Soba Ramen (850yen)

Fu-Gu Sashimi (2,000yen)

Puffer fish aka Blowfish


I am more or less done with Osaka, and Gwen has to fly back to Singapore the very day, bidding her goodbye and a safe trip back home, I made my way to Kyoto Gion area where my next itinerary is to have some street shots of the very hard to come by traditional Geisha.

Maiko will undergo very strict trainings and learning different traditional musical instruments for a few years before graduating as Geisha


Gion area is probably the most Geisha ‘populated’ area in Japan, and it is also a traditional place where Geisha started training as Maiko (apprentice) before graduating as full fledge Geishas. The streets of Gion is crowded and Geisha moves around very discreetly and swiftly from places to places for performance, using mainly quiet and narrow back alleys. 

I was wandering around Gion area and didn’t manage to catch a glimpse of any until the very last back alley that I recce, I saw 1 Geisha suddenly appear out from another back alley. Immediately lifting up my camera, I manage to capture a few shot of her, and thanking her before she disappear into a restaurant. She saw me, and her eyes instantly glanced back to the floor in front of her and started walking even faster; they doesn’t smile or respond to anyone on the street that they encounter and they probably had used to people taking photos of them everywhere they goes. 

They definitely carries an aura of mystery yet a touch of elegance from their body language to gestures. So these few back alleys are the ones that they commonly commutes, and so I just hanged around this area. As minutes ticks by, I manage to capture a few more shots of Geishas making their around the vicinity.

Heritage buildings are seen around Gion area as well as visitors dressed in Kimonos

Entrance to the Geisha performance stage. (Gion Corner)


First authentic Geisha I saw in the back alleys

Saw another Geisha elegantly making her way to her destination

Geisha her making her way in the back alley.


Another day of fatigue, I went back to my dormitory to be almost instantly soundly asleep after a satisfying dinner.

Pork rice with Kimchi (1100yen)


4th day in Japan and on my itinerary is a day tour in Arashiyama. Arashiyama is a pleasant tourist district in the western outskirt of Kyoto with beautiful natural landscape settings, a place of peace and tranquility. Visit here in Spring, Autumn or Winter and you can see the same landscape with a totally different settings. 

Selfie at Arashiyama train station

From my dormitory which is near Kawaramachi station (Hankyu Kyoto Line), take to Katsura and transfer to Hankyu Arashiyama line and take to the very last station. They do have onsen there facing the natural landscape. 

A glimpse of Arashiyama 


Togetsukyo Bridge

There are many other train stations in Arashiyama, coming from different part of Kyoto


Strolling around and settling in a cafe where I had my breakfast, before heading to Sagano Bamboo Groves; another popular must visit place in Kyoto. Bamboos there grown competitively straight up unlike wild bamboos that I had seen in Sungei Buloh (Singapore Nature Reserve) that were growing all round the place. 

At the end of Bamboo groves is Saga Scenic train station (620yen single trip), These trains has open air carriages, cutting through forest and exiting through to vast landscape of mountains and valleys but sadly I felt that these trains are going too fast; it will be nice and easy for the eyes to see but is more challenging to take pictures of the correct angles and settings. These train will complete a 7km course within 20minutes (base on the timing that I took). Alternatively, Hozu river boat tour are also available but that will cost 4,100yen and total time travelled is around 3hours plus. 


Visitors posing for a picture in Sagano Bamboo Forest

Saga Scenic Train


Everyone is trying to get a shot as the train is moving quite swiftly.

Manage to capture something decent (no heads popping in to my frame or train pillars or landscape cutoff)


An alternative way to travel the river but will be more costly.


Torokko Kameoka station is the end station for Saga Scenic train, and there are a few option once I arrived here, like walking 5 minutes to JR Sagano Line and take a train back to where ever I wanna be. I was walking out and I saw a bicycle rental store and I decided instantly to rent a bike to cycle around the place. The guy that is attending the bike rental store is very friendly and helpful but he couldn’t speak a single word of english, and so luckily with the homework of a few basic Japanese that I had learnt, we communicated. Of course we manage to understand each other and comes to an agreement of what bike I wants and the price as well as which place I want to return the bike as it is not necessary to return the bike back to the same store.

Cycling at countryside with plantations around me


Cycling around Kameoka town, I visited the the castle ruins that has nothing much as well as followed the cycling route on the map but I didn’t know actually where I am (lol) but with the help of googles map I manage to find my way to the bike return store. 

Going back to Arashiyama because I felt I hasn’t Zen enough, I stroll the streets of Arashiyama area, sitting by the river staring at the mountain full of trees and continuous water flowing beneath my feet with a can of 500ml Kirin beer, so relaxing and mind clearing.


At the entrance of the castle ruins


The whole place seems deserted as there is no one around

I wonder if I will get captured and lock in some cells and get interrogated.. hahaha just joking.

A glimpse of scenery as I took the train back to Arashiyama from Kameoka

Staring blank and enjoying a can of Ice cold beer in the cool weather while waiting for sunset.


Good time flies, and soon another day has gone as I laid quietly down in my dormitory capsule, tomorrow will be my last day of tour in Kyoto.

I didn’t have much solid plans or place to visit on my very last day of tour in Japan as most of the places that I wanted to visit has been covered. I slept and woke up naturally around 0730hrs and lazily made my way to the washroom to wash up and get ready. Setting off, I decided to head to Kyoto Imperial palace, took a train on Keihan line to Kyoto Shiyakusho-mae station and started walking. The place is closed for don't know what reasons, I disappointedly went to have my brunch in MOS Burger.


Saw this interesting way of crossing river in the city, hopping across rocks to cross to the other side.

After walking for 30mins, the place is closed.


Walking around the quiet town of Kyoto during off peak hours I drop by a few attractions along the direction back to my dormitory area. 


Couple taking picture together at Ginkaku-Ji (Silver Pavilion)


Matcha and vanilla twist..!!!

Strolled the Philosopher path... not much inspiration after that anyway..


Heian Shrine entrance


Big Torii gate outside Heian Shrine


Visitor cleansing with Shrine water.

Beer and Sashimi for my tea break, so delicious and so relaxing. (1,800yen)


It starts to drizzle and started pouring when I was in Yasaka Shrine near Gion area and once again my Canon 70D is caught in the rain drenching wet just like during my solo backpacking in Ho Chi Minh Mekong Delta tour. The strong built of the camera body and lens that comes with weather sealed really proofs quality for repeated occasion of drenching and with some mild aftercare; it still works perfectly fine


The rain starts pouring and visitors are all making their way out to seek shelter.

Drenched Canon 70D with EF 24-105mm F4L IS USM


Finally arrived back in my dormitory, and while wiping and drying my DSLR, a new roommate came in. He was from Minnesota, also solo traveller, and we chatted for a while before he headed out to walk around. 

After which a few more room mates came in, from Australia, Ireland and China; and we started chatting with each other and decided to go out for dinner and some drinks together in the Potoncho area. It was a very enjoyable and relaxing last night for me, having tried great food with nice people, chatting and laughing away before closing off the night with the famous Inchiran Restaurant. Which the ramen and broth tasted so fantastic and probably it is the best ramen I had in my life.


Fortunate enough to see a Smiley Geisha on the very last night in Kyoto.

Sashimi tasting, Salmon, Sea urchin, pufferfish and fish roe


The Famous Inchiran Ramen 

Individual compartments with divider that can be opened


Till we meet again, Thanks for giving me laughters and smile on my last night in Kyoto.

Retiring back to bed, I have a morning flight to catch tomorrow at 1030am, and the capsule stay had been so comfortable for me that I overslept and nearly missed the flight (which I normally seldom overslept overseas). After 1hr 30mins of travelling and changing trains, I finally arrived at the airport check in counter just 1 minute before closing.

Life is beautiful and wonderful because of the memories that we had isn’t it? Travelling and having travelogues definitely can help adds in much more memories and moments in life; with travelogues to rekindle the smile and sentiments years down the road, when memories starts fading and the places are too far to return to. 

Every solo backpacking brings a different experience and inspirations for my new tomorrow. Laugh when the Sun still shines and smiles when the days are pouring rain. Live once live happy!

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