Tuesday, March 12, 2013

Solo Backpacking To Phnom Penh

Once again I have made another decision to travel to a place which I've longed wanted to go but yet not adventurous to do so.. I was googling through the web and also Tiger Airways where I discovered the airfares and accommodation are very affordable; I am going to Cambodia.!

Just some background knowledge to be read up and educated myself before travelling to Phnom Penh (Capital city of The Kingdom of Cambodia), to make this trip meaningful and educational.

On 23rd of February 2013, I had my backpack once again on my back and set off for a 3 day 2 night solitude tour to a 'faraway' land named Cambodia (where not much Singaporean actually talks about as compared to its neighbouring countries for popularity). Items checked, Headphones on, Backpack, Sling Pouch and Favorite shoes on.!! Off I go..

Items Check and setting off...

When I first landed in Phnom Penh airport, I made my way to have my first meal in the foreign land..!! Which I do not actually have very good impression on, not because of the food but because of the hospitality of the staff at the restaurant. My meal cost a total of about $5usd, and I paid the lady at the cashier a $50usd where she got so frustrated and started shouting at her colleague (a guy) and throwing a few pieces of $10usd on the counter. I do not understand a single word she said but from the body language that she portrayed, I supposed that she is complaining and saying that with a $5usd meal, why should I give her a $50usd where she doesn't has small change! First impression is very important, I started to wonder, do all Cambodian behaves this way or just this crazy woman is hysterical. How am I gonna live the next 3 days if  customer service here is like this. (Fortunately, after this encounter, the remaining customer service I received is better then Singapore). *Smile 

Pho 24 (Vietnamese food actually)

Meal over and my first ever historical destination in Cambodia is The Choeung Ek Genocide Center (aka The Killing Field).
As usual, tourist always attract lots of attention from local taxis and tuk tuks and yes.!! I took a tuk tuk and tried to communicate with him to bring me to "The Killing Field" (what a place to be 'sent' to when I just arrive in a foreign land nicknamed 'The Pearl of Asia').
I will say that Phnom Penh traffic is very messy and vehicles are left hand drive, so as I was in the tuk tuk making my way to the site, I really had a few heart attacks; seeing heavy vehicles coming head on towards me as well as cars squeezing pass us as my tuktuk rides really slow... Its not cool. Roads are very sandy as flying sand particles and dust were flying everywhere with locals wearing dust mask.


TukTuk ride in a messy road

Approaching the Genocide Center, I starts to visualise and feels what has happen here just a few decades ago, and what I just about to experience and see are real sites where these massive killings has took place.
A brief description of what has happen during the Khmer Rouge period (during the Communist Years).

A visit to Cambodia's history, Where the Khmer Rouge (Pol Pot - the leader) rules over Cambodia from 17 Apr 1975 to 1979, a massive Genocide happens after which; where 3 million out of 8 million Cambodians killing Cambodians happens. The country name was changed to Democratic Kampuchea and Year was put to Zero. Anyone that was believed or suspected to be traitor were captured and interrogated. Skilled workers as well as professionals were removed. In 1979, Pro-Vietnamese communist invaded and took over. Pol Pot died in 1998, without being put on trial.


Skulls of the victims what were brutally killed

A tree where children are flung against till dead before throwing into the mass graves.

As I walked from point to point listening to a pre-recorded narration device, I feels and felt my heart sunken and starts to wonder why would someone actually wants to do all these; was it for Power? Wealth? Psycho-minded? I continue to walk, witnessing mass graves, fragments of bones and left overs of the past victims and the how they were killed. Some fragments and teeth are still left on the ground, the soil that I am walking and stepping on.

Reflections of Life rings again....


Pre-recorded Narration device

Stupor with Multi Tiers to hold the Bones remains of Victims

As I made my way out, I need to check-in to my guestroom to settle my stuffs, hiring back the same tuk tuk which waited for me, we tried to navigate our way to Sisowath Quay where my guestroom is situated. It cost me $10usd in total for this chartered ride from airport to site to guestroom.

Sinh Foo Guesthouse

During this period of stay, I've visited a few attractions of Phnom Penh; places like The Royal Palace, Wat Phnom, Phnom Penh Night market, the street markets, shopping areas, the night life (which wasn't really happening) as well as a few local dishes at the restaurants.

The Royal Palace

Next Heartfelt place where I had so much going on in my mind and stirring feelings are Toul Sleng Museum

Chao Ponhea Yat High School - Four months after the Khmer Rouge won the Cambodia Civil War, this school was converted into a prison and interrogation center. The Khmer Rouge renamed the complex "Security Prison 21" (S-21) and construction began to adapt the prison to the inmates: the buildings were enclosed in electrified barbed wire, the classrooms converted into tiny prison and torture chambers, and all windows were covered with iron bars and barbed wire to prevent escapes.

From 1975 to 1979, an estimated 17,000 people were imprisoned at Tuol Sleng (some estimates suggest a number as high as 20,000, although the real number is unknown). At any one time, the prison held between 1,000–1,500 prisoners. They were repeatedly tortured and coerced into naming family members and close associates, who were in turn arrested, tortured and killed. 

Today, the museum is open to the public, and along with the Choeung Ek Memorial (The Killing Fields), is included as a point of interest for those visiting Cambodia. Tuol Sleng also remains an important educational site as well as memorial for Cambodians.


Classrooms were converted into interrogation cells

Prisoners were left to die on the bed after being tortured badly

Buildings are Barbed wired

As I walked from buildings to buildings in the 'school' that was once used to tortured human, live humans with blood splashing and spilling everywhere, looking at the dried blood stains on the tiled floor of the interrogation cells; humans can really be cruel, numbed or 'dead heart' if their mind allows them to do so. I felt something is always at my throat constantly, it was a mixed feelings of; am I disgusted at the sight of these happenings or am I grieving over what has once happens here. I felt that I couldn't really speak much fluently when I'm here.
Contrary, life can be fragile yet strong in places like these...

Next was to the culture and livelihood of lower incomes local, living in slum areas where sanitary, utilities support is really bad (how fortunate are we as Singaporean). Locals staying in these area earn approximately $50usd to $70usd a month, living off a budget of $1-2usd a day which is about 4000-8000Riel.

Local street food here cost much cheaper at about 3000Riel a meal, but I'm not quite adventurous towards food and decided to give it a miss.

Slum living

Street markets

Living conditions

A short trip, in a foreign land that was totally different from the place I came from, experiencing and witnessing what has once happens and livelihood of others. From traffic, to culture, to food, to language..
I've decided to have some wine and a slow dinner in one of the popular and ambience restaurant named Titanic, laying back and absorbing the events that I had walked through.

Ambience of Titanic Restaurant

Bad moon rising?? haha

I've really enjoyed this trip, meaningful yet memorable... Having the feeling that I have left something behind when I'm departing. Kinda sentimental feelings or attachment I guess..

Next upcoming destination; Siem Reap (Cambodia) where Angkor Wat is located.

More pictures are at my Facebook page.

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